Round Yoke Top

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Knitting an entire top on a machine is an exciting adventure. It might look complex, but it’s surprisingly easy with an electronic knitting machine. In this guide, I’ll show you how I created a lovely top. Once you try it, you’ll see the magic of knitting from the side.

Machine Requirements:

For this yoke top pattern, you need an electronic knitting machine capable of handling a pattern width of 119 stitches. I used a KH 910 model equipped with an eKnitter mainboard, which supports wider patterns. This setup allows for greater flexibility in design, letting you create beautifully pieces.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: 3-ply, 50g, 416m, Needle size 2.0mm, Type: Cone
• Composition: 100% super combed cotton
• Color: Violet

Designing the Pattern

The pattern was created by Sophie Da Na who has been a tremendous inspiration to me. A heartfelt thank you to Sophie for allowing me to share this pattern on this page and for her invaluable support and feedback throughout this eKnitter project.

The top is knitted sideways, which means you only knit one piece whereas automated short rows simplify the knitting process.

To knit a round yoke shape on the machine, we set the machine to not knit Slip Stitch pattern, which helps us create “short rows.”

Here’s how it works: We set the machine to knit slip stitch patterns, which means the machine only knits some needles (these are shown as black dots in the image). These needles move to a position called D. Needles that are not activated do not knit and stay in a position called B, shown as white dots. This method not only helps us form the curved yoke shape by knitting shorter rows in certain areas but also allows us to create a beautiful slip stitch pattern within the top.

Gauge and Measurements:

Test Swatch:

First, I created a test swatch by repeating the pattern several times. Then, I washed and dried it the same way I would handle the finished garment.

Measure Pattern Repeat Width:

Next, I measured the width of one pattern repeat at the chest level on the swatch. This is where the chest line would be on the actual garment.

In my case the width of one pattern repeat is 0.96 cm.

Width of one pattern repeat

Creating a swatch is essential to ensure the top fits perfectly. It’s important to calculate the gauge in the chest area because, due to short rows, the gauge may vary from what you usually expect of the yarn without short row knitting.

For simplicity, I calculate the width of one pattern repeat, so I easily know how many times I need to repeat the pattern to achieve the desired circumference.

I also check if the length of the swatch matches the length I need for the top.

If the length needs to be modified, this can be done by easily making the pattern longer in the body area. I also check if the yoke part needs to be longer or shorter.

Summary:

1. Test Swatch:
   • First, I created a test swatch by repeating the pattern 8 times. Then, I washed and dried it the same way I would handle the finished garment.
2. Measure Pattern Repeat Width:
   • Next, I measured the width of one pattern repeat at the chest level on the swatch. This is where the chest line would be on the actual garment.
   • The width of one pattern repeat is 0.96 cm.
   • Next, I measured the length of one pattern of the swatch to match it with the desired length.

Desired Measurements for the Top:

• I used one of my daughter’s tops as a reference to determine how many pattern repeats are needed for the chest.
• The total chest width of her top is 28 cm. This includes an extra 1 cm on each side under the sleeve for comfort. Therefore, the main front and back parts need a total of 27 cm.
• The sleeve needs to be 16 cm wide.

Calculating the Number of Pattern Repeats Needed for Each Section

1. Front & Back Width:
   • To find out how many pattern repeats are needed for 27 cm, I divide 27 cm by the width of one pattern repeat (0.96 cm).
   • Calculation: 27 cm/0.96 cm per repeat=28 repeats
2. Extra Comfort Under the Arm:
   • For added comfort under each arm, I will add one pattern repeat.
   • Calculation for each side under the sleeve: 1 repeat=0.96 cm
3. Sleeve Width:
   • To calculate the number of pattern repeats necessary for each 16 cm wide sleeve, I divide 16 cm by the width of one pattern repeat.
   • Calculation: 16 cm/0.96 cm per repeat=17 repeats

Setting Up the Brother Machine:

• Begin with waste yarn: Knit some rows with waste yarn before starting your project. This helps to stabilize the stitches and prevent them from dropping when you switch to the final yarn. Ensure the waste yarn is securely closed in a loop.
• Position the carriage: Place the carriage on the left side of the machine. (But it could also be the right side depending on which side you placed neck part of the round yoke top)
• How to knit automated short rows: Knit the first row using the KC II settings, with this first row you select the needles which will be knitted in the subsequental row. From the second row onward, use the two-part buttons to activate the automated short rows and slip stitch knitting. (If you plan to do an invisable seam you need to knit the first row already with both PART buttons presses which means you need to select the needles for the first row manually or with L carraige. If you select the first row with L carraige make sure when you start knitting with the K carraige that you start with row 1 again).

Knitting Steps:

1. Back of the Top: Started by knitting the back, repeating the pattern 28 times. Set the sleeve needles out of work.
2. Side Section: Knitted the side of the top below the sleeve (for more comfort). I only knit one time the pattern. Needles for the body were then put on hold afterwards.
3. First Sleeve: With the body on hold, knitted the first sleeve with 17 pattern repeats.
4. Front of the Top: Knitted the front to match the back, using 28 pattern repeats.
5. Second Sleeve and Side: Repeated the steps for the second sleeve and other side.

P.S. This project can also be completed without manually moving the knitting needles. However, you will need to design the knitting file differently. For example, the round yoke dress we offer on Etsy is knitted using this method.

Carefully I remove the entire project from the machine using waste yarn. To make sure that waste yarn does not unravel accidently I also secured it. In the last step I close the side seam by hand.